The Cars That Ate India

December 2008/January 2009

Soundtrack:

‘My Car Doesn’t Brake’ – The Spazzys

‘Accident Waiting to Happen’ – Billy Bragg

‘Always Crashing In The Same Car’ – David Bowie

‘Flash and Crash’ – Rocky and the Riddlers

‘Beep Beep’ – The Playmates

‘Big Accident’ – Do Re Mi

‘Brand New Car’ – Rolling Stones

‘Cars’ – Gary Numan

‘Dead Man’s Curve’ – Jan and Dean

‘Who Would Love This Car But Me?’ – Brian Setzer

Indian vehicular road traffic is impossible to ignore or dismiss, and is somewhat cause for substantial anxiety for the uninitiated – or the ‘deer in the headlights’.

Our experiences on this trip of drivers using horns unnecessarily have previously been noted. Yet, again, it is in India that things are taken to an extreme. Toot when you stop, beep when you’re going, honk because everyone else is. Don’t slow down and look around a corner to see if there is another car/scooter/cart/goat/child in the way; put your foot to the floor and your hand in the centre of the steering wheel. It is loud, cacophonous, interminable and, overall, totally superfluous, as, because everyone else is doing it, honking has no effect whatsoever. Motor-scooters have had louder car horns fitted, trucks now blast ear-piercing musical air-horns of an endless variety. The incessant din commences before dawn and only slightly diminishes very late into the night. This bizarre phenomenon has had an unfortunate response from drivers, as now nobody adheres to any perceived or pretend road rules or gets out of the way unless they get honked. This means that vehicles might be coming towards you on the wrong side of the road, or gliding through a red light, and they will not deviate from their course unless they are tooted at. And even then, it’s a two-way bet – either they will or they won’t. Read the rest of this entry »

Delhi, India

20 – 28, December, 2008

Day 255-268

Soundtrack:

‘Namaste’ – Beastie Boys

‘Om’ – Trilok Gurto

‘Poor Boy’ – Split Enz

‘Territorial Pissings’ – Nirvana

‘Beggar on the Street of Love’ – Paul Kelly and the Messengers

‘The India Song’ – Big Star

‘Within You Without You’ – The Beatles

‘Deep Shit’ – Kruder & Dorfmeister

‘Ain’t Too Proud To Beg’ – The Temptations

‘Krishna Blue’ – David Sylvian

‘Dear Sweet Filthy World’ – Elvis Costello and the Brodsky Quartet

‘Don’t Shit Where You Eat, My Friend’ – Ween

“Asola Wildlife Sanctuary (Map G10): A beautiful road moving south of the Mehrauli-Badarpur Road next to Ghiyasuddin’s Tomb leads to Asola Wildlife Sanctuary. The sanctuary covers an area of 26 sq. km. Though not much wildlife exists here, it is full of all kinds of birds and smaller animals. Next to the sanctuary is Dr. Karni Singh Shooting Range.” – International’s Destination Guide, 2007

India, as it is for many, is a shock to the senses from the get-go. A metaphoric smack to the head, asking “What did you expect?” Idiosyncratic, beautiful, frustrating, astounding, baffling. While we think we’ve experienced some rather organic travel in developing nations so far, India is a whole different kettle of fish masala. Read the rest of this entry »

Istanbul, Turkey – Delhi, India

7-19 December, 2008

Day 243-255

Soundtrack:

‘Istanbul (Not Constantinople)’ – Edmundo Ros, The Residents, They Might Be Giants, Jimmy Kennedy/Simon Nat

‘Ringing My Phone (Straight Outta Istanbul) – Jason Moran (the American one)

‘Telephone Call From Istanbul’ – Tom Waits

‘Istanbul’ – Paris Combo

‘57 Channels and Nothing On’ – Bruce Springsteen

‘I Bought a Headache’ – The Replacements

‘Dr Martin’s Boots’ – Alexi Sayle

‘Meeting of the Waters’ – Mike Nock Project

‘Under the Bridge’ – Red Hot Chili Peppers

DB: Our apartment in Istanbul was newly renovated, bright and cheerful. Our host Ali, and his family, made us feel most welcome and was very helpful. But above all we relished the opportunity to live in one space for a while where we could be self-sufficient. Fresh grilled fish and salad in different restaurants is nice and all, but what the children really pined for was some soul food.

Even though we arrived at the apartment after dark, Ali and his daughter were there to meet us and show us around the neighbourhood. After pointing out the local fish and vegetable market and a supermarket, we were able to stock up on the makings of a pasta dinner (pasta!) and breakfast requisites. We took great delight in undertaking usually mundane domestic chores – chopping onions, setting the table, doing the dishes, putting a load of washing on. Indeed, there was a veritable buzz in the air in that little apartment, and a spring in our step. Read the rest of this entry »

Izmir – Istanbul, Turkey

Day 240 – 247

1 – 7 December, 2008

409km

Total: 26,321

Soundtrack:

‘Cold Turkey’ – John Lennon

‘Waiting’ – Tiddas

‘Turk’ – Dirty Three

‘Waiting For The Man’ – The Velvet Underground

‘Young Turks’ – Rod Stewart

‘Waiting All Day’ – Silverchair

‘Bureaucrat Song’ – Hermes (Futurama)

‘Tired of Waiting for You’ – The Kinks

‘Shaking Paper’ – Cat Power

‘Waiting For a Miracle’ – Mighty Reapers

‘I’m Going Slightly Mad’ – Queen

After fond farewells to Jon and Jack Faine, who were heading west into Europe, we hit the road and aimed for Izmir. This would be our final driving destination on this leg, as we would here load the truck into a shipping container bound for Bangkok, while we would while away a few more days in Turkey and then India before it arrived.

I’ve been struggling with a slow leak in one tyre since we were in North America, but two separate tyre repairers, in two countries separated by the Atlantic Ocean, have been unable to locate or repair it. So, this means we grin and bear it, refilling the rogue tyre with air every few days. On our way out of Pamukkale we pulled into a somewhat deserted service station and I jumped out to do the tyre duties, only to discover the servo’s air compressor wasn’t working. This has been a common occurrence over the past few months, so, unsurprised, I climbed back into the truck and drove off in search of another option. Then, as I approached the road some thirty metres away along the servo’s driveway, something in the distance caught my eye in the rear-view mirror, and then I heard a scream from outside. Read the rest of this entry »

Konitsa, Greece – Pamukkale, Turkey

Day 229 – 240

20 November – 1 December, 2008

2,138km

Total: 26,321km

Soundtrack:

‘Greece 2000′ – Three Drives

‘Achilles Last Stand’ – Led Zeppelin

‘Ordinary Australians’ – Tug Dumbly

‘Blue Rondo a La Turk’ – Dave Brubeck Quartet

‘Meet me in the Middle of the Air’ – Paul Kelly

‘Rest Assured’ – Eric B. & Rakim

‘Fish in my Dish’ – Sharon Jones and the Dap Kings

‘Hello Goodbye’ – The Beatles

‘Get Another Plan’ – Abstract Truth

Dedicated to the late Laverne, wonder chook and sister of Shirley (dec). Thanks MTMC for your love and care…

DB: Our days in Hellas were spent variously cruising around back roads, through villages and towns and eating exceptionally well. Without putting too fine a point on it, we were relieved to leave Albania behind and belt along deserted, quality roads. Still, we spent a long time reflecting on Albania, its history, people and struggle to get on top of things. We wish its people all the best.

We had been aiming for Thessaloniki but the weather was inclement, the kids hungry and players were appealing the light so we stopped earlier at Veroia. We negotiated the circa-intuitive central town’s streets and lanes and found a hotel that would have us. Dinner was alone in a large fish and seafood restaurant, and, while pushing 7pm when we arrived, the owner needed to fire up the lights and heating to make us feel welcome. The first restaurant we tried was not serving dinner until 8pm, and it became apparent that, at least in this part of Greece, evening meals were enjoyed late and long. The kids were in bed and Sandy and I planning the next few days long before most of the town tucked in. Read the rest of this entry »

Raffy’s Turkey post

In Turkey we first went to Çanakkale aka Chanakkale. It was sunny then we went to Bergama. In Bergama we stayed in an apartment. In Bergama there is a very big Muslim community. We went to see some ruins it was cold and windy there were a lot of archways. We bought a samovar. We have had a lot of apple tea.

I feel relaxed in Turkey.

Me in the Troy horse.

Albanian Roads and Greece

By Maddy

The roads in Albania are really chaotic. Overtaking is almost like fully driving on the other side of the road when you’re not meant to. Some cars when overtaking try and do as many cars as possible but then don’t realise there is a big diesel truck about 150 metres in front of you, so what most cars do, is stick to the sides of other cars (driving on the lines dividing the two ways) until the truck passes.

Every two kilometres or so, a half constructed building passes, with only a few concrete beams sticking out at odd angles. When we arrived at Vlore, Albania, we almost got killed just trying to find a room for the night. Read the rest of this entry »

Dubrovnik, Croatia – Konitsa, Greece

Day 223-230

13-20 November, 2008

890km

Total: 24,403km

Soundtrack:

‘Down By the Sea’ – The Dubrovniks

‘Common People’ – Paul Young

‘Old Yellow Bricks’ – Arctic Monkeys

‘Jewels and Bullets’ – You Am I

‘Headlights On’ – The Dirtbombs

‘Mercedes Benz’ – Janis Joplin

‘Bunker Soldiers’ – OMD

‘Holy Mountains’ – System of a Down

‘Mighty Ruler’ – Roy Panton

‘Smoke Gets In Your Eyes’ – Irene Dunn, Nat ‘King’ Cole, The Platters, et al

‘When the War is Over’ – Cold Chisel

“Most inhabitants in this area speak other international languages, expecialy english (sic).” – local tourist brochure, Dubrovnik.

The drive into Dubrovnik was, as we had suspected, nothing short of breathtaking. A meandering two-lane highway took us past small villages and along calm azure seas in blazing sunshine. Out to sea were some small and large islands that, during the summer months, would host hoards of twenty-somethings in search of a good time. We past the turn-off to Mostar and Sarajevo and considered how quickly things had picked up in Croatia since its recent wars.

(Pic: Driving into Dubrovnik, Croatia)

We spent some five days in the historic confines of Dubrovnik – one day longer than originally planned as Sandy had succumbed to the lurgy that had been thoughtfully incubated by the children – and spent all of that time in the old city. We rented a comfy apartment and our host, Andrija, provided friendship and advice – and a few other goodies – to make our stay, and Sandy’s recuperation, pleasant. Read the rest of this entry »

Maddy’s post on Dover, England – Brugge, Belgium

We stayed at the Bleriot’s Bed and Breakfast in Dover, which we think was an old house with eight or nine rooms. The next morning, after brekkie (which for me was cereal and juice) we drove to the Port of Dover, got a ticket, and drove the car onto a huge “P&O” ship and after we made sure the truck was safe, went up to the top deck of the boat. Read the rest of this entry »

Menaggio, Italy – Split, Croatia

Day 209-219

31 October – 10 November, 2008

1,753km

Total: 23,513km

Soundtrack:

‘Tiamo’ – Umberto Tozzi

‘Ciao, Baby’ – Lynne Randell

‘Buona Sera’ – Louis Prima

‘Lido Shuffle’ – Boz Scaggs

‘Nights in Venice’ – The Saints

‘Italian Plastic’ – Crowded House

‘Down the Coast Highway’ – Stan Ridgway

‘Split’ – Klapa Iskon

‘Rest Of The Day Off’ – Neil Finn

DB: The snow in Fribourg, Switzerland, had given up trying to impress us and again returned to rain by the time we steered the truck out towards the highway. While it made driving marginally easier, the rain iced up on the front of the truck. Still, the roads were relatively clear.

We had intended on taking back roads through to Italy but this meant negotiating the Alps, which meant more snow and a lot more time. So, the freeway it was, in all its howling, treacherous glory. Again, trucks trundled along at 80km/h, while cars screamed past at 130km/h or more. With a fully laden truck and rain icing up the windscreen I was in no hurry, but again the choice was either crawling behind an articulated lorry or being bawled out by a mad Swiss driver (or French, Italian, German, Austrian, etc) in too much of a hurry. Read the rest of this entry »